Fertiliser Organic or organicblend fertilisers are recommended. Follow manufacturers recommended rates. Try and fertilise your lawn when rain is predicted.
Frequency of application depends on your soil type, turf type, and appearance requirements of your turf. An application of fertiliser every 3-4 months is ideal. Fertiliser is not essential but a healthy lawn is more resilient to weeds, pests and other stresses and will require less water. A plastic flower pot is quite good for fertilising. Fill it up and walk around shaking it so fertiliser comes out through holes in the bottom.
Watering – Only water when lawns show signs of stress. A good heavy watering is much better than lots of small waterings. Do not set automatic irrigating systems on and forget them. Adjust them to suit the temperature, wind and rainfall. Do not set automatic irrigation systems to come on constantly at night. Grass that is regularly wet at night, especially in warm conditions, is susceptible to fungus and disease. The best time to water is between 4am and 8 am.
Mowing – The first rule of mowing is not to mow off more than 1/3rd of leaf area in any one mowing. Try to mow regularly so you don’t have a heavy amount of clippings which you will have to pick up. With regular mowing clippings can be left on the lawn. As a general rule, taller mowing develops a hardy and efficient root system which requires less watering. Do not take this rule to the extreme as lawns that cannot breathe are susceptible to problems. If a lawn has got much too long and needs to be brought back quickly, fertilise the lawn and then one week later shave it off. Remove all cuttings and keep damp to minimise stress. It is advisable to do this to hybrid/green couch lawns on a regular basis to eliminate stalkiness.
Top dressing – This is only required to repair uneven lawn surfaces or rejuvenate old lawns that have been laid on poor soil surfaces. Do not cover grass completely. Fertilise prior to top dressing. Major depressions and lawns on poor clay soils may need several treatments over an extended period. Use our Turfsoil or Top Dressing Mix.
Shade and trees – Only certain species of grass can handle shade. Trees not only shade grass but also suck nutrients from the soil. Lawns grown in shade should be allowed to grow taller for more area to photosynthesise. Areas under trees should also be fed and watered slightly more.
Wear – Certain grass varieties handle wear better than others. Wear is generally a combination of soil compaction and turf damage. Try and prevent compaction by loosening area with a garden fork and top dressing with course sand. High wear areas need good nutrition and water to manage the stress.
Weeds – If you have prepared your site properly, selected the right type of turf, and looked after it well, weeds should not be a problem. For more information go to Weeds, Grubs & Diseases.
Grubs – Lawn Army Worm is known to attack lawns that are lush and growing quickly. A good way to encourage more consistent and controlled growth is to use organic and slow release fertiliser. For more information go to Weeds, Grubs & Diseases.